5 Lessons From My First Trip to Montenegro

The first time I laid eyes on Kotor Bay — a dramatic stretch of water framed by rocky mountains and lined with picturesque villages — I actually gasped.

I made my husband pull our tiny rental Fiat over to the edge of a 1-lane road so I could snap photos from every angle, trying to imprint this idyllic landscape in my mind forever. I somehow never got tired of admiring this country’s beautiful scenery and went on to have an incredible 10-day vacation there, thanks to friendly locals, stunning vistas at every turn, and memorable hotel stays.

That said, there are a few things I wish I had known before visiting. Here are 5 lessons from my first trip to Montenegro.

1. Getting There Takes Some Strategy

Montenegro isn’t a part of the European Union, so when I started planning my trip, I knew arrival could be a little dicey.

Skip Podgorica if You’re Heading to the Coast

Podgorica Airport (TGD) is in the country’s capital, but this area is much farther inland and not at all close to the most coveted Montenegrin coastal destinations such as Budva, Herceg Novi, and Kotor Bay. The twisty mountain roads can also make for a harrowing drive and are often in poor condition.

Fly Into Croatia and Drive Across the Border

Most of the information I found online suggested that the best way to reach the area would be to fly into Dubrovnik (DBV), Croatia, rent a car, and drive to Montenegro.

Although some online forums reported heavy traffic and border delays, Google Maps said the trip would take under 1 1/2 hours. We promptly booked flights from Madrid (MAD) to Dubrovnik and rented a car with SIXT, a popular European rental agency, at prices significantly lower than those of other agencies.

I read online that taking the car across the border would incur an additional €50 ($58) charge, payable upon picking up the car. From my understanding, this is a standard fee that all rental agencies charge if you plan to drive to Montenegro — a quick call to SIXT confirmed this.

Be Ready for Long Waits at the Border

What should have been a 1 1/2-hour trip took just over 3 hours, as we waited at least an hour at border control (I should have taken those Reddit comments more seriously). However, I came prepared with snacks, and there were several gas stations and places to stop for a break.

Do know that the area right in front of the border crossing is just wooded landscape, so if you need a bathroom break, stop a few miles before the border. Once you get to Montenegro, you can find places to stop shortly after the crossing.

Once we got to the border check after the long wait, we didn’t have any issues. There was just a quick passport stamp, which felt hassle-free. If you visit in the high summer months (my trip was in August during peak summer travel), be aware that your trip might take a few hours.

Take the Car Ferry

Because Montenegro’s roads are trafficky and often cut through mountains, the country has several car ferry options. You drive your car onto the ferry and briefly cross a body of water.

I was a little nervous about the logistics of this when we drove from Croatia to Montenegro (and back), but it turned out to be easy and fun. I hopped out of the car to buy the ticket (about €5, or about $6) while my husband drove into the queue.

We drove the car onto the ferry, got out to take in the views, then drove it off. It was simple, fun, and my 5-year-old son still talks about how the car ferry was the best part of his trip to Montenegro.

Or Just Fly Into Tivat

Shortly after my trip, Iberia launched flights to Tivat (TIV), Montenegro, which would have been an easy way to fly there from Spain. As the country’s tourism grows, so do its flight routes. Make sure to check for Tivat before crossing borders.

2. Bring Euros (and Expect To Use Them)

Unfortunately for all of us points-and-miles people who want to charge everything for points, many restaurants and local spots don’t accept credit cards. However, the country uses the euro as its currency, which is relatively easy to obtain, especially if you’re coming from another European Union country.

Some places do accept credit cards, but I was sometimes asked to pay an additional fee (usually 1% to 3%). Of course, this isn’t the case at every establishment, and most larger hotels accept credit cards, but it’s good to be prepared with cash.

If you do swipe your card, make sure to pay in euros, as you’ll get a more favorable exchange rate than paying in U.S. dollars. If you pay with a credit card abroad, make sure to use a card with no foreign transaction fees that offers bonus points for your purchase. For example, you get 3x on all foreign purchases using the Atmos™ Rewards Summit Visa Infinite^® card.

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3. You’ll Find Everything From Budget Stays to Points Hotels

Montenegro might feel off the radar, but you can still find accommodations of all kinds, including points hotels. In fact, some of the most stunning hotels I’ve stayed in over the past decade were the Hyatt Regency Kotor Bay and Iberostar Herceg Novi — both of which were free because of points.

At the Hyatt Regency Kotor Bay, I paid just 24,000 points per night for a Regency Suite Sea View with Hot Tub for 3 guests when cash rates were up to $1,000 per night. And, these were truly some of the most magical views I’ve ever seen. I paid 56,800 IHG Reward Points per night for an all-inclusive stay at the Iberostar Herceg Novi, where I had one of the best family vacations yet.

If it’s luxury you’re after, you could stay at the One&Only Portonovi or IHG’s Regent Porto Montenegro. Or there’s always the Four Seasons Yacht, which docks in Tivat and in ports in Greece and Croatia.

If you’re on a budget, Montenegro is significantly cheaper than comparable touristy areas of Croatia or Italy, which is just across the Adriatic. A simple search on Hotels.com or Booking.com shows many family-owned accommodations, boutique hotels, and B&Bs for well under $100 per night.

And if you’re willing to travel in shoulder season, like May and June or September and October, you’ll find that lodging can be even more affordable.

4. It’s Busy — but Still Feels Underrated

Montenegro was busy when I visited in August (the country’s peak season), especially on the coast. Still, it felt much less touristy than destinations like Dubrovnik, which I’ll never go back to in August.

It was an absolute circus, and this was nearly a decade ago, on the Amalfi Coast or Santorini. There aren’t nearly as many tourists from the U.S here, as most visitors come from Europe and Montenegro’s surrounding countries.

But go soon, because as more airline routes open up and the country becomes more popular, it will surely get more crowded and more expensive.

5. It’s Safe and Family-Friendly — but Not Always Seamless

I never felt unsafe in Montenegro, and I spent many nights roaming the coastal villages along the bay, including Kotor itself. Of course, I always follow general travel safety precautions, but I never felt unwelcome during my trip.

In fact, Montenegro is extremely family-friendly. Locals fawned over my child, asking for high-fives and chatting with him. And I’m pretty sure hotel staff members gave us free use of kayaks just because my son charmed them.

That said, the country is struggling to keep up as tourism grows. You may face traffic, poor road quality or signage, and single-lane roads around popular tourist destinations, where you’ll have to pull over to let someone by. You may not always find a pharmacy, supermarket, or an international restaurant right nearby. Outside of hotels and tourism-geared restaurants, people may not speak great English.

The country’s lack of infrastructure can be frustrating, but it’s likely what’s keeping the masses from visiting, so it puts things in perspective. Honestly, just try to enjoy Montenegro as it is, taking in both its flaws and its immense beauty.

Final Thoughts

I had an incredible vacation in Montenegro, and I can’t wait to go back. This time, I’ll skip the border crossing, fly into Tivat, and head further down the coast to Budva, a beach town I’m dying to explore. If you plan a trip to Montenegro anytime soon, be aware that you may encounter traffic and poor roads, but the country’s beauty and welcoming culture make it all worth it.