5 Things You Should Know About the Rocky Mountaineer

The Rocky Mountaineer in Canada is one of the world’s most famous train journeys. Running from Banff in Alberta to the big city of Vancouver, British Columbia, on the western coast, the train offers 2 days of luxury combined with breathtaking sightseeing as you traverse the Canadian Rockies.

I had the chance to complete this trip after a week’s stay in Calgary, as I needed to reach the west coast. Having seen numerous YouTube reviews of this train, I knew I had to try it for myself.

1. The Train Only Runs During the Day

When it comes to long-distance train journeys, many people picture a long Amtrak train, or the type of train used in the cross-country VIA Rail service from Toronto to Vancouver. On these types of trains, you’re assigned a room where beds fold down in the evening. You sleep on board, awakening the next morning, and then an attendant puts away your beds while you dine at breakfast.

The Rocky Mountaineer is unique in that it covers the same distance that would ordinarily require an overnight train with sleeping cars, but it only operates during the day. The daytime journey allows you to take in the beautiful scenery outside, rest overnight in a hotel, and then continue back for more views the next day. When you think about it, it’s really ingenious and somewhat unique to Rocky Mountaineer trains.

On my journey, I traveled from Banff to Vancouver. I stayed at the Moxy Banff the night before, although Banff is known for its famous Fairmont Banff Springs.

We departed Banff at around 8 a.m. and traveled all day on the rails until the evening, when we arrived in the midway city of Kamloops at around 6 p.m. At Kamloops, we were offloaded from the Rocky Mountaineer, put on motorcoach buses, and then driven a short distance away to a hotel.

The hotel was nothing special, and it got the job done. It allowed us to enjoy an evening meal at a local restaurant and then return to the hotel for a full night’s sleep.

I really appreciated being able to sleep in a “real” bed overnight, without worrying about the movement of the trains or the inconvenience of setting up and taking down a bed.

I most appreciated the fact that I could shower and use the bathroom without having to deal with a train restroom, which are typically very icky and hard to move around in. Even after showering on a train, I never truly feel 100% clean, but with the overnight hotel stay, I could reset and depart fresh the next day.

On the train, I was served breakfast and lunch on both days. Although our hotel offered a complimentary breakfast, there was no reason to partake, as a much more substantial breakfast was served onboard the train.

Dinner was not provided during the overnight stay, and we were responsible for covering the bill when we went out to one of the local restaurants. That said, I was stuffed after eating the extensive amount of food onboard, so I didn’t really need to worry about dinner.

2. This Train Is Not Cheap

The Rocky Mountaineer is not a cheap experience, by any means. A one-way trip from Banff to Vancouver, priced for my dates in late June, costs $2,916 Canadian dollars (about $2,100) per person in GoldLeaf (first class) and CA$2,117 (about $1,525) per person in SilverLeaf (second class). In my opinion, it’s much more worth it to splurge on GoldLeaf since GoldLeaf includes additional amenities you won’t find in SilverLeaf.

I was in GoldLeaf for my trip, and it included the following:

• Pickup from most hotels in Banff to the train station
• A 2×2 seat with extra legroom and recline; GoldLeaf carriages also feature open-air decks
• Restaurant-style made-to-order meals, canapés, and all drinks (both alcoholic and nonalcoholic) are included; the train featured breakfast and lunch both days
• Transfer from the train to the hotel in Kamloops
• Overnight accommodation at the hotel in Kamloops
• Drop off at most hotels upon arrival in Vancouver

SilverLeaf includes the same amenities. However, meals are served at your seat (similar to an airplane), you don’t have unlimited beverages, and, probably most importantly, you don’t have access to an open-air deck on the train. You’re only able to look out the windows in your carriage.

While the GoldLeaf experience is absolutely unbelievable and breathtaking, the incredibly high price will certainly deter people. Still, I recommend it if you can afford it.

You may wish to charge your trip to the American Express Green Card^®*, to earn 3 Membership Rewards points per dollar spent on train travel.

*The information regarding the American Express Green Card^® was independently collected by Upgraded Points and not provided nor reviewed by the issuer.

3. Kamloops Isn’t Luxurious

Though the Rocky Mountaineer is a luxury experience, the overnight layover in Kamloops doesn’t match it. Many passengers are surprised to find the accommodations in Kamloops so basic.

The train stopped in Kamloops, and we were asked to exit. Our luggage was checked through and waiting for us at the hotel for the evening.

Before arrival, an attendant came down the aisle to hand out hotel key packets and information with our Kamloops arrival time, local restaurants, and the departure time the next morning.

Rocky Mountaineer guests are assigned one of several hotels in the region. There are some hotels in the downtown area, and then a few others about a 15-minute bus ride away. Interestingly, the GoldLeaf guests didn’t seem to get the closer hotels, and we were instead shuttled to a Fairfield Inn a few miles away. This was one of my biggest gripes of the entire journey.

After paying a hefty sum for the trip, I was disappointed that we were given one of the farthest hotels from the train. Not only did this mean a longer bus ride to get there, but it also meant that we wouldn’t be able to see the town, walk in the downtown area, and enjoy the better restaurants in this area. While I don’t know precisely who was sent to these downtown hotels, after speaking with some passengers, it appears that some SilverLeaf guests may have been sent there, which made the situation even more frustrating.

The Rocky Mountaineer website has disclaimers noting that accommodations in Kamloops will be clean and comfortable, but not necessarily luxurious. However, it is clear that there appear to be different levels and locations of hotels, and I wish they had assigned the best to the passengers in the higher class of service.

The Fairfield by Marriott Inn & Suites Kamloops we were sent to was clean and comfortable, just as Rocky Mountaineer described. It was located near some strip malls, and there really wasn’t anything to walk to nearby. However, we were given the name of a sushi restaurant to try at a Best Western down the street, and we went there for dinner. It was perfectly fine and provided just the right amount of food for this point in the day. Upon return to the Fairfield Inn, it was a quiet evening, and most people went to bed early.

The next morning, we followed the instructions given and met the guide in the lobby to board the bus to head back to the train. It was an early morning, and they were very strict on the departure time. If you were even the slightest bit late, the guide would call your room and follow up. I recommend being in the lobby, ready to board the buses. Your checked luggage can remain in your hotel room (packed, of course), and it will be transported to Vancouver or Banff, depending on your destination for the day.

Fortunately, I had the Hyatt Regency Vancouver to look forward to in Vancouver.

4. Take Advantage of the Open-Air Deck

GoldLeaf class is considered the “first class” accommodation onboard. One of the most significant differences between this and the SilverLeaf class is an open-air deck at the rear of the carriage.

The car is equipped with seats on the upper deck and features restrooms and a dining area on the lower deck. Towards the very back, by the restrooms, is the outside deck. Throughout the trip, you have unrestricted access to this area. Even as the train goes full speed through the Canadian wilderness, you can head to the deck to grab some fresh air and snap pictures.

During my trip, a regular crowd of people would go back and forth from their seats to the deck throughout the day, while the majority of passengers remained seated on the upper level.

Some passengers were big train aficionados with apps and websites pulled up to track our progress and the trains we’d be passing along the way. These enthusiasts certainly made the journey more fun than usual, and we’d all stand on the deck monitoring our progress throughout the day as we stuck our heads out of the side of the train looking to see what was ahead.

5. GoldLeaf Is the Way To Go

When traveling on a train like this, sitting in first class is highly worth it. In GoldLeaf, you can take in amazing views, which are much better from the GoldLeaf carriages. SilverLeaf carriages only have side-view windows, while GoldLeaf carriages have panoramic windows for views of the sides and sky.

The open-air deck is an absolute game-changer and probably would be the sole reason I’d choose GoldLeaf over SilverLeaf, especially if you’re a photo enthusiast or want to take in the surrounding landscape from a different vantage point.

There is no shortage of food at any point of this journey, and GoldLeaf passengers are overfed, for sure. For meals, a light appetizer is served to passengers who are not in the first seating. Between meals, canapés and drinks are served, followed by multi-course meals featuring appetizers, entrees, and desserts, along with an open bar.

Final Thoughts

The Rocky Mountaineer is one of the world’s greatest train journeys, and I had been looking forward to trying it for years. I am incredibly thankful I had the opportunity to ride this train. While I splurged on a GoldLeaf seat, the entire train journey is considered a luxury experience.

The trip is costly, no matter how you slice it, and there’s no practical way to use miles or points to help save on the fare. Still, if you get the opportunity to ride this truly iconic train from Banff to Vancouver or vice versa, you’ll remember the scenery and experience for a lifetime.