I Escaped Dubrovnik’s Summer Crowds and Visited These 6 Spots Instead

The walls that surround the city of Dubrovnik — massive, centuries-old stone fortifications — are impressive. But visiting them on a summer day was a total disaster, as hundreds of other tourists had the same idea: walking the walls first thing in the morning to beat the heat. The attraction’s history and views aren’t nearly as enjoyable when others are shoving and squeezing past you.

As the day goes on, Dubrovnik’s walls get even more crowded, despite the intense sun, according to the lady at the Old Town ticket window, who told me, “It’s full and dangerously hot.”

I found Dubrovnik’s Old Town to be absolutely stunning but a total circus, given the wall-to-wall crowds and tour groups. I decided that if I ever want to experience Dubrovnik’s history and famous walls again, I’ll come back in winter. Instead, I spent my time exploring nearby destinations that offered many of the same charms without the overwhelming crowd.

Here are 6 spots I went to avoid the tourist hordes, as an alternative to the crowded, busy historic center of Dubrovnik.

1. Dubrovnik Riviera: Cavtat

The Dubrovnik Riviera stretches along Croatia’s southernmost coast and is busy in summer, but the vibe is entirely different than that of Dubrovnik’s Old Town. Most people visit to relax and enjoy long Mediterranean lunches along the sea, swim at the pebbly, local beaches, and explore the smaller coastal towns once the sun sets.

It’s true that the Dubrovnik Riviera technically includes Dubrovnik’s Old Town, but I found the smaller towns of Cavtat and Mlini to be just as beautiful and more serene.

I spend quiet mornings roaming along the pine-tree-lined shoreline of Cavtat, and in the afternoon, exploring the Shell Museum with my son to beat the heat. Visiting the town’s St. Nicolas Church was a fun, touristy activity, and while it certainly wasn’t the fortified Old Town of Dubrovnik, it had plenty of charm and fewer tourists. As the day went on, I’d watch the sunset, swim in the sea, enjoy fresh seafood, and stuff myself full of gelato.

Beaches along the shoreline are also beautiful and worth the trek. Pasjača is one of my favorites, set beneath rocky cliffs and overlooking emerald-colored Adriatic waters.

2. Babin Kuk Peninsula

If you’d like to brave Dubrovnik’s historic center for a quick day trip but want to stay far away from the chaos afterward, consider the Babin Kuk peninsula. It’s only about 10 minutes north of Dubrovnik’s Old Town but feels worlds away, with luxury hotels, long stretches of pebbly beaches, and an upscale, resort-town feel.

I think it’s one of the best places for families to stay. I stayed for a few nights at the Valamar Tirena, which featured a massive pool with waterslides, an indoor kids club with STEM-inspired activities, and a trampoline park that I practically had to drag my son away from each night. The family entertainment also included a near-professional production of “Beauty and the Beast,” complete with a family dance party and meet-and-greet with the actors, which I enjoyed just as much as my son.

And yes, I managed to get off the resort property to explore the peninsula (though you could easily spend a few days at a luxury hotel there without leaving).

The sand-and-pebble Cava Beach is one of the most popular in the area, perfect for daytime dips and relaxing, while the neighboring Copacabana Beach is best for water sports. There are also many rocky spots and marinas where you can enjoy incredible Croatian sunsets.

3. Montenegro

Montenegro is how I imagine Croatia was 30 or 40 years ago: less infrastructure, less popular, and still gaining international attention. Either way, it’s an excellent alternative to Dubrovnik, with its clear waters and several medieval villages.

The drive from Dubrovnik to Montenegro takes 1 to 3 hours, depending on border traffic, and you’ll have to pay an extra €50 ($58) to the car rental company to cross the border. If you’d prefer something shorter, consider visiting Herceg Novi — a town just over the border from Croatia, where the bay meets the Adriatic.

If you do plan to visit Kotor Bay, make sure to catch boat rides around the area to visit the seafront villages (wear comfortable walking shoes, as many are very hilly).

My favorite stops were Risan, known for its underground caves, and Perast, where you can walk up a stone stairway for iconic views of the bay. The town of Kotor is also fun if you’re looking for more restaurants, nightlife, and activities.

4. Pelješac Peninsula: Dalmatia’s Wine Region

Escape Dubrovnik’s crowds by heading north to the Pelješac Peninsula, an area that produces some of Croatia’s best wines thanks to its stonier soil, including Dingac, Pošip, and Postup.

Never heard of Dalmatian wines? That’s not surprising since Croatia doesn’t really export its wine. According to the winemakers I spoke to, Croatia doesn’t have a surplus of wine, and it can barely meet domestic demand, especially given the high influx of tourists. That said, it simply doesn’t have enough to send abroad, making a visit to the region even more special.

The tranquil town of Ston is at the base of the peninsula (about an hour north of Dubrovnik), an easy base; then you can drive north to explore the area’s wineries and oyster farms. If you’d prefer to mix wine tasting with beach time, consider heading to Podobuče, a charming village with a pebbly bay.

And if you’re into organic wine? You should plan to taste your way through Kormana on the other side of the Pelješac Bridge. It’s the youngest wine appellation in Croatia and the first entirely ecologically certified wine region in the country.

5. Lokrum Island

Perhaps you made the same mistake I did and planned a trip to Dubrovnik’s Old City in July or August. Everything is crowded and hectic, and it feels more like a zoo than a peaceful vacation. It’s OK — you can still escape — and without renting a car or booking a pricey excursion. Just take the ferry for about 10 to 15 minutes to the nearby island and UNESCO-listed nature reserve of Lokrum.

The first thing I did was walk the uphill Path of Paradise to Fort Royal. It’s best to do this first thing in the morning, before it gets too hot, since the hike is mostly in the sun. Then, plan to explore the 11th-century Benedictine monastery.

There are nearby restaurants, but I brought a picnic lunch and ate with the bunnies and peacocks that roam freely around the island. When it got hot after lunch, I followed the lead of local children and jumped off the cliff into the sea. I also visited the Dead Sea of Lokrum, a small saltwater lake where you can float in the chilly, salty water. You can also cliff jump there, too, if you dare.

6. Bosnia

The idyllic town of Mostar in Bosnia is about a 2 1/2-hour drive from Dubrovnik Airport, though it may take longer during peak summer traffic. You also have to pay a fee (similar to what you’d pay to take the car into Montenegro) to cross the border.

But once you get to Mostar, activities, dining, and accommodation are very affordable. I spent most of my day wandering around town and watching local kids jump off the famous Stari Most (Old Bridge). Many restaurants and hotels overlook the Neretva River, giving the town a peaceful feel, even with many visitors.

On the way, I stopped at the Kravica Waterfalls, a perfect family-friendly destination where you can swim or kayak in the crystal-clear water of the falls. If you stay nearby, you can visit them early in the morning before many other visitors arrive. While afternoons are busier, the waterfalls are still worth seeing.

You can do all of this as a day trip from Dubrovnik, but it’s worth staying a few nights to explore everything this underrated region has to offer.

Final Thoughts

Dubrovnik is a beautiful, centuries-old city full of attractions that any traveler would want to see. But summertime in the Old Town has simply become too much. My suggestion is to explore the Old Town during a low or shoulder season, and visit some of the destinations on this list as alternatives to enjoy the Dalmatia region in July or August.