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15 Things You Should Know About Going to Versailles in 2024

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Michael Y. Park
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Michael Y. Park

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Michael Y. Park is a journalist living in New York City. He’s traveled through Afghanistan disguised as a Hazara Shi’ite, slept with polar bears on the Canadian tundra, picnicked with the king and que...
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The Palace of Versailles, the final home of the prerevolutionary French kings and queens, is another of France’s bucket-list tourist sites and one of the most visited destinations in the world. It’s pretty much one of the first things Americans think of when they think of France (after the wine-drinking, beret-wearing, cheese-eating, and baguettes, of course), encapsulating a sophistication and worldliness that seems impossible to catch up to but also a backward-looking mentality and obsession with the past that never quite jibes with Americans’ innate optimism and dogged pursuit of the next big thing.

On a weeklong visit to friends who live down the street from the Palace of Versailles, my family and I dedicated 2 whole days to exploring this cultural icon, 1 to the chateau itself and another just to the gardens. It instantly became one of our favorite places in France, and we’d go back in a heartbeat, but there are things we wished we’d known beforehand.

Here’s what you should know about going to Versailles.

1. Book in Advance

Versailles court of honor entry line
Versailles, just outside of Paris, France.

My family and I were lucky: Using a combination of our local friends’ memberships and media accreditation (government-issued or on that level of an institution with instant and universal recognition— don’t expect them to let you in because you have a blog or vlog), we managed to get into the palace after a brief visit to the press office.

But I’ve heard enough stories from other friends to know that you need to buy your tickets well in advance — weeks, not days — and reserve a time slot. Because the ticket windows for entry are short (30 minutes) and the lines are long (sometimes over an hour), you should get in line before your appointed time.

The tickets cost €12 ($13) and up and vary depending on whether you want to see just the palace, just the gardens, just the Trianon estate, or the whole shebang. You can also include a boat ride, bike rental, train ticket, meal, or shows.

But unless you really only have 1 day to take it all in, it’s better not to get the all-inclusive Passport ticket because …

2. The Palace Is Big. The Gardens Are Gargantuan.

Versailles staircase
This is just the beginning of the interior of the palace.

… you’ll run yourself ragged and enjoy it all less if you try to cram everything in.

The palace is huge, and there are sections that are usually off-limits except for special events or exhibits. Our friends, who, understandably, were sick of doing the usual route (they go some 30 times a year for work events and to humor out-of-towners like us), split off early in the morning to see a new hall that had been reconstructed and was open to certain members. We didn’t run into them again until the afternoon.

And the gardens are even bigger — 2,000 acres. To put it in perspective, that’s more than double the size of Central Park in New York City or Disneyland Shanghai (the biggest international Disney resort). It’s 19 times the size of the Magic Kingdom in Florida and 20 times the size of the original Disneyland in Anaheim, California.

Versailles Gardens Les Petits Trains
The Little Train will be the sweetest sight you ever did see by the end of the day in the gardens.

The easiest and cheapest way to get around the gardens is to hop on the regular Le Petits Trains (“The Little Train”), which runs every few minutes in a circuit around the major points of interest of the garden and then to the back of the palace. It costs €9 ($10) for a full fare and is basically a hop-on, hop-off situation — you only have to pay for a ticket once, and it’s good for the day. (Hang onto that ticket to show the driver each time!)

You could also rent golf carts (€42.50, or about $47, for 1 hour, plus €10.50, or about $12, for each additional 15 minutes), though that seemed to defeat the purpose of wandering around the gardens.

Versailles Gardens cart rental
At €42.50 ($47) an hour, this is a comfortable but expensive way to tour the gardens.

Finally, you could also rent a rowboat (€16, or $17, for 30 minutes), though the only place to row anywhere is the Grand Canal.

Versailles Gardens Little Venice boat rental
The boats looked fun but were limited to the Grand Canal.
Hot Tip:

Wear comfortable shoes. You’ll be walking a lot.

3. Palace: The Crowds Thin Out After the Hall of Mirrors

Versailles Hall of Mirrors selfie couple
They’ll do this, you’ll do this, everyone’ll do this.

The worst spot in all of Versailles is the worst because it’s right before the spot that everyone thinks is the most amazing. I’m talking about the doorway that leads into the Hall of Mirrors, which gets so clotted with tourists taking photos that the surge of people just has to stop until everyone’s done taking their pics (with hundreds of other people taking pics in the Hall of Mirrors) — think of that constant ring of human beings around the “Mona Lisa” in the Louvre.

Of course, once you’re actually through the doorway, it gets less crowded, but you’re still dealing with the same hundreds of people taking selfies in the Hall of Mirrors. You’re not going to get any shots without countless strangers in it here, but the good news is that past this point, the crowds generally loosen up.

4. Palace: But You’ll Still Be Swimming in Crowds

Versailles EU flag
Put down the flag for a second, dude.

But not entirely. And you have to get used to the fact that there will be lots of people almost anywhere in the palace. For example, during our visit, the Room of Abundance (part of the King’s State Apartment) was shoulder to shoulder at points, with tour guides blocking views by annoyingly waving around flags to keep their groups together.

In the private chambers and smaller rooms, you have to shuffle past the roped-off exhibits in a human stream of gawkers that funnels through the narrow passageways. If you lose a party member or have to go backward for any reason, you’ll be swimming upstream. It can all feel claustrophobic.

Versailles Palais sitting room
Rotate just an inch to either side and you’d see hundreds of people crammed in like sardines.

So it feels wonderful when you can escape the well-beaten path and discover what everyone else is seemingly ignoring inside the palace, like the almost desolate galleries of statues.

Versailles hall of statues
A rare, quiet, empty space inside the palace.

5: Gardens: They’re Better Than the Palace

Versailles Garden Orangerie
The gardens are the real star of Versailles.

Many people go to the palace, thinking that’s where the main show’s at, then skip the gardens entirely. That’s a huge mistake: The Versailles Gardens are the real star of Versailles.

You can (and should) spend a whole exploring the gardens, getting lost in the labyrinthine hedges, marveling at the secret grottoes and fountain shows, checking out the statuary, and, of course, stepping into the shoes of French kings, their mistresses, and Marie Antoinette in the more modest buildings they considered their real homes.

Plus, the crowds are much, much easier to handle, both because so many people skip out after checking the palace off their list and because everyone there thins out over 2,000 acres.

To get the most out of the gardens, including a map and the schedule for events like the fountain shows, download the free Palace of Versailles app, which doesn’t require an internet connection to work.

6. Gardens: Find the Groves

Versailles Gardens Apollos Baths
Apollo’s Baths.

Seemingly hidden throughout the gardens are over a dozen so-called groves, painstakingly designed spaces that showcase architecture or highlight the beauty of the natural surroundings. They’re all quite different from each other, and they’re all a delight.

Versailles Gardens Ballroom Grove
If you’re lucky, you may see the fountains of the Ballroom Grove at play.

Some are historically significant, too, like the Ballroom Grove with its cascading miniature waterfalls, where Louis XIV’s oldest son, the dauphin, held a legendary grand ball (you can still rent the space for events). Onlookers could watch couples dancing the minuet or gavotte from opposite the fountains, which were fed by a pump from the Seine miles away.

Versailles Gardens Colonnade Grove
The Colonnade Grove was finished in 1697.

7. Gardens: The Fountains Are Useful Landmarks

Versailles Gardens Fountain landscape view
Latona’s Fountain was inspired by Ovid’s “Metamorphosis.” The Grand Canal is in the distance.

The gardens were designed so that there would be fountains of various sizes at important junctures. Some of these are relatively small, but some of them are large and impossible to miss. The Grand Canal and Bassin de Neptune are enormous. Regardless of their size, though, they’re all different and thus good landmarks to use when you’re trying to orient yourself and figure out where to go next on these massive grounds.

Versailles Gardens Apollos Chariot
You know you’re at the far end of the palace gardens when you find the gold-covered Apollo’s Fountain.

8. Gardens: Keep an Eye Out for Statues, Buildings, and Other Finds

Versailles Gardens English Gardens Le Rochere et la Belvedere
Marie Antoinette used The Belvedere in the English Gardens for tea parties and as a summer lounge.

Every time you turn a corner in the Versailles Gardens, you run into yet another charming structure, statue, or design element that reminds you how much care went into the design of these spaces. The Belvedere, for example, was constructed with windows and doors on every side that opened to let in maximum light and cool breezes as Marie Antoinette and her companions lounged there in the summer.

The four seasons are a constant theme throughout the gardens, and if you give yourself a little leeway to see things in hindsight, the striking figures of the personification of winter you can find can seem to foreshadow the looming end of the reign of the House of Bourbon.

Versailles Gardens Winter statue
Old Man Winter.

9. Gardens: The Grand Trianon Is Like a Miniature Versailles

Versailles Gardens Grand Trianon
The Grand Trianon was originally covered in porcelain. Unsurprisingly, they had to replace the facade after only a couple of years.

Built for Louis XIV’s influential mistress, the Grand Trianon is like a miniature version of Versailles Palace that can be an alternative to the big chateau. You can tour the intimate interior rooms of France’s most powerful people, just like at the big palace.

Versailles Gardens Grand Trianon green sitting room
This was the Madame de Maintenon’s private bedroom.

Though the crowds are technically smaller, the Grand Trianon is a smaller palace, so it can feel equally crowded as you squeeze through the narrow pathways past the antique furnishings and ghosts of headless royals and aristocrats.

Versailles Gardens Grand Trianon bedroom
Does that bed actually look all that comfortable to you?

And, no, you cannot play pool on the pool table downstairs.

Versailles Gardens Grand Trianon billiards room
Who’s up for a game? No one.

The Grand Trianon also houses a small textile museum that teaches visitors about the jaw-dropping complexity and craftsmanship of the period’s ornate and sumptuous cloths.

Versailles Gardens textile museum
The textile museum in the Grand Trianon.

10. Gardens: The Petit Trianon Brings It Back Down to Human Scale

Versailles Gardens Petit Trianon French Garden
Marie Antoinette’s favorite place in the world.

When you’re a royal, you can have a little palace for your palace. That was the Grand Trianon. When you’re a height-of-French-royalty-royal, you can have a littler palace for your little palace. That was the Petit Trianon, Marie Antoinette’s home inside her home and possibly her favorite place on earth.

It’s impossible at Petit Trianon not to see how the French royal family built a bubble for themselves that didn’t do them any favors when the people came calling for their heads (the building was designed with dumbwaiters and mechanisms so the queen and her closest friends could see and interact with as few servants as possible). And it’s also impossible not to find the place charming and, especially compared to the lavishness of court life at the main palace, relatable and even somewhat modest. You come away from the Petit Trianon feeling sorry for the doomed queen.

Versailles Gardens Petit Trianon sinister tree
The trees looked like black lightning or the tentacles of fate reaching for Marie Antoinette’s refuge.

One of the most telling details of how much she loved this palace is that the window by her bed in her private bedchamber has a direct view of the Temple of Love, a neoclassical marble open structure.

Versailles Gardens Petit Trianon queens bed
The view from Marie Antoinette’s bedroom in the Petit Trianon.

You can then walk to the Temple of Love and see exactly what Marie Antoinette must have stared out at countless times in the morning and at night.

Versailles Gardens Petit Trianon Temple of Love
The Temple of Love close up.

Much more than the over-the-top grandness of the main palace, the human scale of the Petit Trianon and immediate surroundings remind you that this was a real family that met a tragic end, trapped in circumstances that they, despite their bloodline, really had no control over.

Versailles Gardens Petit Trianon path
The Petit Trianon forgoes the grandness of the palace for a more human scale of living.

11. Gardens: The Hameau de la Reine Is the Best Part of Versailles

Versailles Gardens Le Petit Hameau
Stay on the path, or Gaffer Gamgee’ll tell Farmer Maggot!

If you follow the same general route that we did (and I suspect most first-timers do), you’ll be blown away by the majesty of the Versailles Palace, get lost in the expansive gardens and seemingly endless palace gardens, take a breather and recover somewhat with the toned-down grandiosity of the Grand Trianon, be touched by the quaintness (again, relatively speaking) of the Petit Trianon, and then walk through a bucolic winding path or 2 and then suddenly find yourself in the Shire.

Yeah, the one with the hobbits.

Versailles Gardens Le Petit Hameau bridge
The bridge leads to the queen’s house, but she never really stayed there.

The Hameau de la Reine (the Hamlet of the Queen) was a mock-up of a provincial French farming village that Marie Antoinette had built, reflecting a nature-loving trend in philosophy, architecture, and art in vogue at the time. Marie Antoinette went on walks and had small parties here with her closest friends.

It was also a real working farm, and it continues to be home to several kinds of farm animals today. A real farming family lived on the farm and used the milk they got from the cows and eggs from the chickens to supply the palace. Today, farmhands still maintain it, and you can see them working with the animals as the tourists snap their pics.

Versailles Gardens Le Petit Hameau chickens
Yup, real chickens.

During the French Revolution, the antiroyalists used the existence of the Hameau as propaganda against the queen. Many people still believe that Marie Antoinette used the mock village as a giant dollhouse set, pretending to be a simple milkmaid, which there’s no evidence for. (The 2006 movie “Marie Antoinette” seems to have helped perpetuate that fiction.)

Versailles Gardens Petit Hameau geese goslings
The animals are real, but the fairy tale tower was mostly just for show.

12. Gardens: There Are Various Events Throughout the Day

Versailles Gardens water fountain show
The fountains put on a water show you can catch if you time your visit right.

Versailles Gardens puts on various events throughout the day in some seasons, including fountain water shows and musical events in the groves during the evenings. Check the calendar to see what events are on for the day or evening you’re visiting.

The Great Stables are open on Saturdays and Sundays in the spring and summer until October. They’re free to visit. They’re not actually on the main grounds of the palace but directly across the street from the main visitors’ entrance.

Hot Tip:

The official Palace of Versailles app will let you know when there are shows and where they are.

13. There’s Food and Drinks in Both the Palace and the Gardens

Versailles Gardens Le Bosquet du Dauphin cafe
There are outdoor cafes with sandwiches, snacks, and drinks under the trees in Versailles Gardens.

There are places to eat all over Versailles — from cafes to restaurants — in the palace itself, in the Trianons, and in the gardens.

In the gardens, the 2 fancy sit-down restaurants are by the Grand Canal. You can get takeaway snacks around here, as well, or at the cafes closer to Versailles Palace in the forest paths. (Look for the sandwich boards with signs pointing the way.) Both the Trianons also have a cafe or small cafeteria, too. You can also picnic at marked spots in the gardens. (There are groceries and bakeries within walking distance of the main entrance to Versailles Palace.)

In Versailles Palace, you can eat at Angelina, which you can enter via the Royal Courtyard; the Grand Café d’Orléans in the pavillion d’Orléans; or the ORE restaurant in the pavillion Dufour.

And, you can buy Maison Ladurée macarons inside Versailles Palace, of course.

14. There’s Shopping, Too

Versailles Palais Laduree macaron store
There’s royal swag and macarons to be had.

Besides the Ladurée, there are souvenir shops inside the palace. The Librairie des Princes bookstore (which also has games) is to the left of the Courtyard of Honor.

You can even buy official Versailles sneakers (by French company Le Lissier).

15. It’s Really Worth Going To

Even if you’re not a European history buff and aren’t into the grandeur, architecture, fashion, or art, Versailles is an incredible place to visit that has more than earned its place on most tourists’ bucket lists. I somehow missed coming here for decades and, after finally making it here, knew that that had been a mistake and that I should’ve made a higher priority. It’s one of those rare overtouristed destinations that’s actually worth the hype. If Versailles isn’t already on your bucket list, add it now.

Final Thoughts

When the regular French population broke through the gates of Versailles and saw the splendor that their rulers had lived in for generations, then thought back on their own squalor and the hopelessness of their situations and that of their children, they were outraged, to say the least.

After a brief restoration and a couple of flirtations with a Napoleonic dynastic empire, France said its final farewell to a monarchy a long time ago. The beautiful things and places the onetime kings left behind have become the Fifth Republic and modern France’s most treasured relics, precious pieces of history and art that now belong to all the people — not just the ones at the top.

If Versailles is a destination on your bucket list, don’t put off a visit, and make sure you spend enough time exploring this most heavenly look at the past. And if it’s not on your bucket list, it should be.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do you need tickets for Versailles?

You don’t tickets to go to the city of Versailles, but you do need tickets to get into the Palace of Versailles or the Versailles Gardens. The tickets cost €12 ($13) and up and vary by whether you want to take in just the palace; just the gardens; just the Trianon estate; whether you want to include a boat ride, bike rental, train ticket, meal, or shows; or the whole shebang.

Do you need to buy tickets in advance for Versailles?

You should book tickets for Versailles Palace at least a couple weeks before you intend to visit. Tickets do sell out regularly, and you have to reserve a time slot.

Are there places to eat inside Versailles?

There are several places to eat in Versailles Palace and the gardens, from simple cafes to more formal restaurants.

How many days should I spend at Versailles?

Though you could try to cram it all into a single day, you should try to spend at least 1 full day in Versailles Palace and 1 full day in Versailles Gardens.

Michael Y. Park's image

About Michael Y. Park

Michael Y. Park is a journalist living in New York City. He’s traveled through Afghanistan disguised as a Hazara Shi’ite, slept with polar bears on the Canadian tundra, picnicked with the king and queen of Malaysia, tramped around organic farms in Cuba, ridden the world’s longest train through the Sahara, and choked down gasoline clams in North Korea.

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