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How I Spent 5 Days in the Happiest Country on Earth [What To See, Do, and Eat in Finland]

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Ryan Smith
Edited by: Michael Y. Park
& Keri Stooksbury
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The author visited as an invited guest of Visit Finland. All opinions are the author’s own, and no one from Visit Finland had input in any part of this story.

For the eighth year in a row, Finland has been crowned the world’s happiest nation. It’s also a great place to visit, even if you aren’t among its happy citizens.

Part of what makes Finns so happy is their access to nature — something they want to provide to visitors and preserve through sustainability initiatives and ecotourism.

I recently spent 5 days in Finland, dividing my time between the capital of Helsinki and Tampere, known as the sauna capital of the world. Here’s how I spent my time in Finland, including things to do, places to eat, and tips on places to stay using your points to defray costs.

Why Is Finland the Happiest Country on Earth?

Finland has been named the happiest country in the U.N.-sponsored World Happiness Report for 8 years in a row. Rather than understanding happiness as simply smiling a lot, the report investigates the reasons why people are happy or unhappy and what factors have led to these sentiments.

Finns have numerous protections aimed at providing for people’s basic needs, removing worry and despair — the opposites of happiness, according to the report — so people can focus on their dreams, friendship, hobbies, etc. Thus, education, housing, access to nature, public transportation, and communal spaces are provided by the government, while Finns themselves focus on interpersonal connections and their connection to the planet. Guaranteed paid time off, for example, removes worries about money while providing space for personal enjoyment.

All 5 countries at the top of the 2025 list are in Europe: Finland, Denmark, Iceland, Sweden, and the Netherlands.

Hot Tip:

Finns also consider their connection to the planet as part of being happy. Sustainable Travel Finland provides resources on visiting the country in an earth-friendly manner, including a list of businesses that meet rigorous sustainability requirements. The list includes hotels, restaurants, tour operators, and more.

Helsinki

Day 1

Allas Pool

After arriving and settling into the hotel, I visited Allas Pool. This waterfront location offers much more than just a pool, though it does have several of those. It also provided a great way to stay active and awake, rather than sitting down at the hotel and falling asleep — something that wouldn’t help me stave off jetlag. Tickets to Allas start at €18 ($20).

Guests can swim in the warm pool (the larger setting).

Allas Pool Helsinki lap pool
The warmer pool — though not as warm as a typical heated pool.

There’s also a cold pool that’s filled with sea water — emphasis on “cold” here.

Allas has a large, mixed-gender sauna in the main building and separate saunas in the small, black huts next to the cold pool. There’s also ample space for lounging in the sun.

Allas Pool Helsinki cold pool
The small, cold pool and the smaller saunas.

Allas also had an impressive rooftop bar and indoor restaurant.

Allas Pool Helsinki rooftop
The rooftop had great views.

Guests can access lockers and showers. Towels can be rented for €8.90 ($10).

Puistokatu 4 — Space for Science and Hope

After showering and changing clothes, I visited Puistokatu 4, the Space for Science and Hope. In a 19th-century villa, this space has numerous scientists approaching climate questions and ecological crises from various angles in an interdisciplinary setting.

Puistokatu 4 Space for Science and Hope Helsinki
The space’s library is on the ground floor.

Restaurant Elm

Dinner was at Restaurant Elm, on the ground floor of Puistokatu 4.

Restaurant Elm Helsinki dining room
Elm’s dining room.

Elm is an all-day restaurant that focuses on waste reduction and using food that’s in season — including items grown in an on-site garden. Elm’s menu is Mediterranean-inspired, and meals cost between €14 and €48 ($16 to $54).

Restaurant Elm Helsinki risotto
The risotto was fantastic.

Day 2

Suomenlinna

After breakfast at the hotel, I caught the ferry to nearby Suomenlinna, which covers several islands near Helsinki. Because people still live on the islands, the ferry is part of the public transportation system, meaning you can use transit cards to visit this UNESCO World Heritage site.

Suomenlinna Helsinki fortress
Crossing from one island of the fortress to another by bridge.

Much of the fortress still stands, and visitors are free to walk around the area for self-exploration.

Suomenlinna Helsinki fortress rear
Some of the buildings on Suomenlinna.

There are period actors available, as well, if you’re interested in a guided tour.

Actor at Suomenlinna
The actor was guiding a group of school children, and they were captivated by his storytelling.

After poking around the sites, I met my guide, Anna, from Foraging Finland. Over the next 90 minutes, I learned about finding edible herbs and mushrooms on the island and in Helsinki’s parks. I also learned about Finland’s concept of “everyone’s right to the land,” under which people can pick items around the country with few restrictions, so long as they do so sustainably. Workshops start at €40 ($45).

Suomenlinna Helsinki foraging walk
Learning about the incredible volume of herbs I’ve always overlooked.

Restaurant Lasipalatsi

For lunch, I visited Restaurant Lasipalatsi, on the upper floor (and offering great views) of a building that was originally built as the ticket center for the 1952 Summer Olympics before serving numerous purposes in the ensuing decades. Now it offers traditional Finnish meals in a great setting.

The menu focuses on fresh fish and vegetables, plus other fare like reindeer, lamb, and seasonal vegetables from the local area. Main dishes cost €25 to €39 ($28 to $44).

Restaurant Lasipalatsi Helsinki main dish
Too bad this picture doesn’t let you smell the food.

Design District

After lunch, I explored the Design District on the south side of central Helsinki. The area was easily walkable and even has its own map, available at most hotels and tourist information areas. Whether you’re into architecture, art, clothing, or other design elements, there’s a lot here, and I only scratched the surface during an afternoon exploring the area.

Helsinki Design District fire station
A fire station in the neighborhood.

A popular stop is the Artek 2nd Cycle shop, which collects, refurbishes, and sells classic pieces from this Finnish furniture and decoration brand.

Artek 2nd Cycle Helsinki Design District
Some of the items at Artek 2nd Cycle.

The Design District stretches across 25 streets and 200 locations, including jewelry makers, antique shops, restaurants, museums, and more.

There’s a design museum, but I headed to the Merkki Media Museum instead. On the top floor, interactive displays talked about current media, the misinformation crisis confronting the world, and how to understand the role of journalism in this environment.

Merkki Media Museum Helsinki
The museum’s upper floor.

On the lower level, there were numerous displays on the history of printing, including hands-on elements like typesetting and layout tutorials using newspaper stories from past decades.

Merkki Media Museum Helsinki printing machines
Printing machines on the lower level.

Natura

For dinner on day 2, I headed to Natura — a centrally located restaurant focusing on modern dishes prepared in an open kitchen. The food is local, organic, and sourced regionally. Menu items included seafood and fresh vegetables grown at the restaurant’s own farm.

Natura Restaurant Helsinki entrance
The restaurant’s unassuming entrance.

Natura was awarded a Michelin Green Star for its sustainability initiatives, and it was incredibly delicious. Dishes started at €14 ($16), though set menus with wine pairings can cost as much as €90 ($101).

Natura Restaurant Helsinki risotto
The chef’s recommendation for vegans was this risotto, which was unique and delicious.

Bar Mate

I finished the evening with a stop at Bar Mate, based on a recommendation that they have numerous options for craft cocktails and mocktails. Service was fantastic, as well.

Bar Mate Helsinki
Inside Bar Mate in Helsinki.

Day 3

Helsinki Central Library Oodi

After another great hotel breakfast, I caught a tram to Helsinki Central Library Oodi. Visiting a library didn’t sound that interesting at first, but hearing the story of its creation made me curious. The city asked people what they wanted in a public, free-use space, and the result was much more than a basic library.

Helsinki Central Library Oodi top floor
The library’s top floor.

Along with classes in Finnish for immigrants, the library has numerous meeting facilities, music recording rooms, cafes, 3D printing stations, and more. There are even instruments that can be checked out for free.

Helsinki Central Library Oodi instruments
Instruments that you can check out from a library?!

The top floor has the library’s books, a children’s play area, reading spaces, and more — all with a roof designed to capture noise and keep the space quiet, despite children running around.

Helsinki Central Library Oodi information desk
Central area on the top floor, including the information desk.

A robot collects books, which I loved.

Helsinki Central Library Oodi robot
The robot collecting books.

And the spiral staircase between floors was beautiful.

Helsinki Central Library Oodi staircase
Straight out of a movie.

The top of the library is on the same level as the parliament building across the square, and an outdoor terrace provides great views and a place to enjoy a drink.

Helsinki Central Library Oodi view over Warehouse Park
View from the library’s outdoor terrace.

Restaurant Toppa

I had lunch at Restaurant Toppa, near the Allas Pool and outdoor market area. Toppa is on the top floor of the Sugar Cube building, designed by famed Finnish architect Alvar Aalto.

Restaurant Toppa Helsinki
Inside the restaurant.

The restaurant serves light bites with a Finnish twist. Prices range from €15 ($17) to €90 ($101) for the feast menu with wine pairings.

Restaurant Toppa Helsinki meal
Finnish traditional food served over a baked potato — that’s interesting!

There’s also an outdoor terrace, great for warmer weather.

Restaurant Toppa Helsinki terrace
The outdoor terrace at Toppa.

Transit to Tampere

After lunch, I headed to the train station for a 90-minute train to Tampere, known as the sauna capital of the world. Tickets between the 2 cities start at €15.80 ($18) and can be purchased online in advance.

Finland Intercity train Helsinki to Tampere
Finland’s Intercity train, which I took from Helsinki to Tampere.

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Tampere

Day 3

Särkänniemi

My first stop in Tampere (pronounced TAHM-peh-reh) was the second-largest amusement park in Finland, Särkänniemi. Park tickets (which start at €27 or $30) include the use of public transportation to get there and back home, helping guests reduce their carbon footprint.

Sarkanniemi Amusement Park Tampere overhead view
Overlooking the park from the observation tower.

Särkänniemi is en route to becoming carbon neutral by 2030 and uses renewable energy — and it’s also a great amusement park. Those looking for great rides should try either Tornado or Hype, which were my 2 favorite roller coasters.

Sarkanniemi Amusement Park Tampere Tornado ride
Passengers waiting for Tornado to start.

Along with classic theme park attractions, Särkänniemi has an aquarium and an observation tower with a revolving restaurant at the top.

Sarkanniemi Amusement Park Tampere tower view
Views from the tower.

The restaurant, Näsinneula, offers fine dining and wine pairings, along with great views.

Sarkanniemi Amusement Park Tampere tower restaurant Nasinneula
Inside the revolving restaurant.

Särkänniemi’s most interesting program, however, is its Hospital Amusement Park, which is a free park at TAYS Children’s Hospital.

Pyynikki Nature Reserve

Särkänniemi was still on a reduced spring schedule during my visit, so it closed at dinner time (it only starts operating later into the evening after June 1). From here, I caught a bus to Pyynikki Nature Reserve. Those with more time or wanting to get further away from the city could take Outdoor Express buses — an interesting concept from the local government to ensure all people have access to nature. It runs to multiple national parks in the Tampere region.

Pyynikki Nature Reserve Tampere path
One of the main trails in the park.

Pyynikki has multiple trails in the woods, lookout points over the city and the lakes, outdoor exercise equipment, scavenger hunts for children, and more. The coffee shop at the entrance also has incredible doughnuts.

Pyynikki Nature Reserve Tampere views
It’s nature in the city.

Saunas

Next, it was time to check out Tampere’s claim to fame: saunas. There are over 70 public saunas in Tampere, and my first stop was the oldest still-functioning sauna in Finland, Rajaportti. It’s not only a great sauna, but I also learned about its eco-friendly elements. The price for adults starts at €7 ($8).

Rajaportti sauna Tampere interior
The men’s sauna with fold-down benches.

For many Finns, part of the sauna experience is the ability to take a cold plunge in the sea or a lake after heating up in the sauna — something Rajaportti doesn’t have because of its hillside location. The staff advised I check out Sauna Restaurant Kuuma, which has a restaurant, bar, 2 types of saunas, and a floating dock over the lake.

Sauna Restaurant Kuuma dining room
Kuuma’s dining room.

The seawater was incredibly cold, and I made a few efforts to swim like the locals between visits to the traditional wood-heated sauna and the modern smoke sauna.

Sauna Restaurant Kuuma cold plunge
Steps down to the cold plunge area.

Both types were much more comfortable than the sauna at my local gym, where the steam feels oppressive every time you enter. Sauna visits start at €15 ($17) for adults.

Sauna Restaurant Kuuma sauna interior
Inside the smoke sauna (which my phone wasn’t happy about).

Kuuma’s restaurant offered a mix of Finnish and international fare, multiple types of drinks, and great views over the water. Main dishes cost between €16 and €42 ($18 to $47).

Sauna Restaurant Kuuma salmon soup
As a vegan, I didn’t try it, but the salmon soup was really popular.

Day 4

Mänttä

After filling up on the hotel’s breakfast buffet, I caught a van out to the nearby city of Mänttä, roughly 1 hour outside Tampere.

Road from Tampere to Mantta Finland
Along the road to Mänttä.

Set among multiple lakes, Mänttä has rapids that provided the power for the operations of one of Finland’s oldest paper mills.

Serlachius Headquarters Mantta Finland
Outside the headquarters.

Now separate from the paper company they founded, the Serlachius family’s name can still be found on several museums in Mänttä, thanks to their history of art patronage. The Serlachius headquarters times its tours with the bus company to help guests use public transportation. Visit prices start at €16 ($18) for adults.

Serlachius Headquarters Mantta Finland interior
The headquarters building’s lobby.

What I thought was a simple tour of the headquarters turned into a dramatic tour with a period actor from the 1950s, evaluating guests for our potential fit for various jobs at the paper company.

Serlachius Headquarters Mantta Finland actor
This woman was awesome.

The tour continued with a short bike ride (a van was also available) along a nature path for roughly 20 minutes.

Serlachius Headquarters Mantta Finland bike ride
Pedaling over to the manor.

This took me to the Serlachius Manor, the former home of the second president of the paper company and now a renowned art museum.

Serlachius Manor Mantta Finland
Former home of the company president, now an art museum.

The museum houses both classical and modern art.

Serlachius Manor Mantta Finland paintings
Some of the many paintings at the museum.

Displays encompassed areas that felt like a traditional museum

Serlachius Manor Mantta Finland former living room
Inside the former living room.

The on-site restaurant, Gösta, had a great setting in the new wing of the museum and is included on the European 360º Eat Guide, which lists only sustainability-minded restaurants with high-caliber menus.

Serlachius Manor Mantta Finland Restaurant Gosta overhead
Overlooking Gösta.

The Serlachius Fine Arts Foundation boasts one of the most extensive private collections in Scandinavia, and the arts vibe extends to the Art Sauna experience.

The living room at the Art Sauna has art and great views, and groups can rent out this space for an incredible setting. Individual visitors can pay €14 ($16) per adult during public dates.

Serlachius Art Sauna living room
The living room and its views.

There’s no art in the sauna itself, though it’s a great sauna with incredible views over the lake. And the sauna’s design, built into the backside of a slope, made it feel extremely private.

Serlachius Art Sauna interior
Looking into the sauna.

Villit ja Viinit

After the 1-hour van ride back to Tampere, I had dinner at Villit ja Viinit in the city center. The menu changes monthly, based on what’s in season and pairing it with the restaurant’s wines. Each course from the set menu had a different pairing, including nonalcoholic options, plus vegetarian and vegan customizations of the menu.

Villit ja Viinit’s staff was super friendly and explained items well, including the fact risotto is a prominent feature of the menu — especially since they heard numerous complaints after doing away with it for a few months last year. A 4-course set menu is available from €48 ($54).

Villit ja Viinit restaurant Tampere risotto
Risotto with zucchini.

The mushroom entrée was incredible, and I could’ve had an entire meal of this.

Villit ja Viinit restaurant Tampere mushroom appetizer
I’m not normally a big mushroom fan, but this was spectacular.

Thrasherie

I ended my final night in Finland at Thrasherie, a metal-themed bar that highlights Finland’s extensive history of metal bands like Nightwish, Death, Stratovarius, and Children of Bodom, as well as music from international metal bands.

Day 5

Tampere Hall

My day started, once again, with a great hotel breakfast before heading to Tampere Hall. Carbon-neutral since 2019, this building has numerous meeting facilities, cafes, and restaurants.

Tampere Hall main hallway
The main corridor on the ground floor.

It also has 2 auditoriums that host everything from music and dance to comedy.

Tampere Hall main auditorium
The larger of the 2 auditoriums.

A small garden on the roof grows herbs for the on-site catering teams.

Tampere Hall rooftop garden
Visiting the rooftop’s small garden.

The Tampere Hall was the first Nordic congress center to gain many of its environmental certifications, and the facility also is home to the Courtyard Tampere City.

Courtyard by Marriott Tampere City Hotel lobby
Inside the hotel’s lobby.

Moomin Museum

For comic and cartoon fans, Tampere Hall is also home to the world’s only Moomin Museum.

Tampere Hall Moomin Museum entrance
Entrance to the Moomin Museum.

Exhibits cover the history of the Moomin comics and the life of their creator, Tove Jansson. Tickets start at €7 for students and children over 7 years old or €14.50 for adults ($8 and $16, respectively).

Tampere Hall Moomin Museum display
Displays on the museum’s upper floor.

After a quick snack at the café, I ended my time in Finland by catching the train from Tampere to Helsinki-Vantaa Airport (HEL) for my flight home.

Tampere Hall dining terrace
Just one of the dining areas at Tampere Hall.

How To Fly to Finland Using Points and Miles

Luckily, there are options for saving money on flights by using credit card points and frequent flyer miles. Finnair flies directly between Helsinki-Vantaa Airport and 6 U.S. airports, including Chicago (ORD), Dallas Fort Worth (DFW), Los Angeles (LAX), Miami (MIA), New York City (JFK), and Seattle (SEA). Finnair is a member of the Oneworld alliance, partnering with carriers like American Airlines, Alaska Airlines, British Airways, and more.

For Finnair flights between the U.S. and Finland, you pay 30,000 Avios per person each way in economy, 43,500 Avios in premium economy, and 62,500 Avios in business class.

Finnair A350XWB business class seat 2L angle
Finnair business class on the Airbus A350.

Finnair Plus, the airline’s loyalty program, uses Avios — the same currency used by British Airways, Iberia, Aer Lingus, and Qatar Airways. That’s good news, as you can easily move Avios between these programs at a 1:1 ratio.

Alternatively, you can book flights using American Airlines AAdvantage miles — paying 30,000 miles each way in economy or 57,500 in business — or Alaska Airlines Mileage Plan miles, paying 27,500 in economy or 55,000 in business.

It’s also possible to fly to Finland with other airlines by adding a connection, such as Lufthansa through Frankfurt (FRA) or Air France through Paris (CDG). This allows you to book with additional types of miles and use different airline alliances.

Where To Stay in Finland

There are solid options for using points and free night awards on hotel stays in Finland. While Best Western, IHG, and Hyatt don’t have any properties in the country, there are several hotels worth considering in Helsinki and Tampere.

Lapland Hotels Arena Tampere bathroom sauna shower
It’s worth checking for hotel rooms with a private sauna inside the bathroom. For example, Lapland Hotels Arena in Tampere provides a private, high-quality experience.

Helsinki

It’s also worth checking sites like AmexTravel.com or the Chase Travel portal. These portals let you use points at a fixed rate, and you can book boutique hotels using your cards’ built-in benefits. An example of this is finding properties in Fine Hotels + Resorts through AmexTravel.com and then using The Platinum Card® from American Express‘ prepaid hotel benefit for up to $200 in statement credits each year.

Solo Sokos Hotel Pier 4 Helsinki bedroom
Use travel credits on your credit card if you want to stay at local hotel brands like Solo Sokos Hotel Pier 4 in Helsinki.

Tampere

Courtyard by Marriott Tampere City Hotel exterior
Courtyard Tampere City, next to Tampere Hall.

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Final Thoughts

Finland has a lot to offer, and this wasn’t my first visit. However, it was my first time exploring beyond Helsinki. Even in the capital, I enjoyed visiting sites and restaurants I hadn’t been to before. The biggest surprise was the Helsinki Central Library Oodi.

Whether you’re relaxing in a sauna, exploring a city, or connecting to nature, getting around Finland is easy, thanks to solid transportation networks. The country also has great food, much of which is sustainably harvested.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the happiest country on earth?

According to a report sponsored by the United Nations, Finland is the happiest country. It’s been at the top of the list for 8 years in a row.

Why is Finland the happiest country in the world?

Finland’s high ranking in happiness reports is based on a combination of factors, including a strong welfare state that meets people’s basic needs, a focus on balance and nature, and a strong social trust. Finns see happiness as the absence of worry, not just smiling a lot, so removing the things people worry about (such as lack of jobs, lack of education, and lack of money) contributes to happiness.

How did Finland become so happy?

The country is known for a positive work-life balance, little income inequality, and high social mobility, Finland’s society creates happiness through its culture of looking out for everyone.

Do people speak English in Finland?

There is a high rate of English fluency in Finland, and this holds true across age groups. Many people are fluent, and most Finns have at least some grasp of the English language.

What are the most populous cities in Finland?

By population, the ranking starts with Helsinki, then Espoo, Tampere, Vantaa, and Oulu.

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About Ryan Smith

Ryan completed his goal of visiting every country in the world in December of 2023 and is letting his wife choose their destinations, including revisiting some favorites. Over the years, he’s written about award travel for publications including AwardWallet, The Points Guy, USA Today Blueprint, CNBC Select, Tripadvisor, Point.me, and Forbes Advisor.

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